Wow. I don’t know how to begin to describe the beauty of this place – I’ve never experienced anything like it. Amazing. The majesty of the mountains; the simplicity of the people; the cleanliness of the villages, the ruggedness of the trails. We flew out of Kathmandu just after sunrise. Again the beauty is indescribable. Flight was fairly smooth until we flew through a mountain pass about 10 min from Lukla – then it was like a wild roller coaster – I’m surprised no one on the flight lost their breakfast! I must say that it felt a little strange at times see twelve thousand feet on the altimeter when all the windows reveal mountain walls with snow covered peaks far above. Great landing, full brakes the moment the wheels touched down (very short runway). There were no other planes here when we arrived – so this was nothing like the YouTube videos (they must have been taken in October during peak season).
Trekking
All the other foreigners on the flight were trekking to the Mt. Everest base camp (EBC) – this is a 10-14 day round trip. They all met their guides, had tea and headed out for their first day. Most will only go about three to four hours each day in order to avoid illness from the elevation change. We are over 2860 meters (9380 ft) at Lukla and the EBC is 5364 m (17,596 ft), the summit of Mt. Everest is 8848m (29,029 ft). Many will hike a good bit higher then where they are lodging each night and then return to the lower elevation to sleep – this is said to be the best way for the body to adapt. Some can become very ill at this elevation from over-exertion and have to return. My Sherpa guide, Mingma was born and raised here. He first began as a porter (carrying supplies) to EBC at 11 yrs old – carrying 30kg (66lb) on his head from Lukla for days at a time. At 19 he completed his guide training to lead trekkers and has been doing this ever since. He has the nimble feet of a deer and the rocky terrain and endless energy. We ate breakfast Monday morning with Mingma’s cousin Pasan who has lead eight successful summit expeditions all but the first one he used no oxygen! He has an official photo certification of each summit on his wall.
There is a steady stream of Sherpa people and donkeys on the EBC trail. (Sherpa is the tribal or caste name for these mountain people) Long lines of pack mules carry supplies to the outposts along the trail. Most return to Lukla empty. The mules know the path and walk with no direction from their owner who walks behind. Mingma says that at peak season (Mt. Everst climbing season) the trail is so busy that there can be a 30 minute wait to cross some of the bridges. I have no desire to come at that time. But the idea of coming back at in March one of these years to make the trek to EBC will probably never leave me until I actually do it.
Quiet
I am overwhelmed as much by the quietness of this place as I am by its sheer beauty. There are no horns because there are no vehicles! I hear the sound of donkey’s hooves on the rocky paths, the pleasant greetings of passing neighbors, the clucking and crowing of chickens, the clanking of hammer and chisel in the distance, the whisper of the wind through the mountain evergreens, the rush of a mountain stream far below – melt water from Mt. Everest; the swishing of the majestic birds riding air currents that saddening bring them within feet of my ears on the mountainside; the babbling rivulets of water that bring life into the tiny villages carved out of the mountainsides, the calls of the man driving oxen to plow the next season’s potato fields. There is something wonderfully renewing in the quietness.
Mingma, my Sherpa guide
I met Mingma at the airport. This is off-season and he meets the flights hoping to catch some who haven’t booked their trekking with larger companies. Mingma works for a German trekking company as well – just not much work during this season. He helped me to a restaurant for a breakfast of Nepali bread, honey and tea. I selected a hotel room with an amazing view – for about three dollars US (there is a photo of the view from my “temporary office.” I then hired Mingma to take me around the area – some hiking, sight seeing etc. I visited his home where we had mint tea, then off towards Everest for an hour or so. We stopped again for tea, I had lemon this time before heading back to his village for a lunch of potato pancakes with yak butter and hot chilies. (I should have gone a little easier on the hot chili topping). Oh, yes, there was more tea. We then hike to his Buddhist temple where we watched the priests chanting for awhile (its festival time). We visited a gathering house nearby where I found out that the male Sherpas will meet tonight for music and Sherpa dancing. This is not a religious event but a community event that occurs in the evenings when the people come for the temple festival. I have made arrangements to attend this dance and record what I can – should be fun!
The stories will tell a better tale than I can – the beauty is amazing. The wind is howling at times as I write this and try to pick from many, many amazing photos.
PS – I still have no word on the second song workshop that will happen somewhere in India. Please keep praying for wisdom in scheduling and for great songs from the limited number of musicians who will be in attendance. I may hear from them when I gain access to wifi and upload this post.